Chubbs the Parrot Cichlid has now been moved into his new home – a 37 gallon aquarium with a new tank mate – a 7.5″ featherfin synodontis catfish! They seem to get along fine, water is a little cloudy but it will clear up soon!
Donut-shaped stove which burns with a short blue strong flame. Boils 1 litre of water from 23C in 12 minutes. 54 minutes burn on one can of wood. DANGER WARNING: This stove may leak a large amount of carbon monoxide into the room. Always use under a fume hood which exhausts air outside the house or use it outdoors. (I didn’t measure the CO level. If someone knows if this is true or not, please tell me.) Experimental version: – Steel can with no top or bottom. Cover bottom with aluminum foil. – Weight 64g, height 120mm, diameter 98mm. (Fruit can) – 20 primary air intake holes on aluminum foil, 4mm diameter. – Secondary air intake (donut hole): diameter 40mm, height 90mm. IMPORTANT: Top of donut hole must be at least 10mm below top of the stove to provide space for secondary air to flow outwards.. – Fuel: 290g hard wood pellets. (put in 20g of charred pellets before adding fuel pellets to protect the aluminum foil from heat and reduce smoke at flame out. ) IMPORTANT: leave 10mm of space above the top of the fuel so that the smoke can flow towards the hole. – Fire starter: 5g shaved candle wax and 20 charred pellets soaked with 1ml alcohol – Burn time: 54 minutes – Pot stand: provides a 10mm gap between the stove and the pot. IMPORTANT : This stove design needs to sit on a grate to allow primary and secondary air to flow in from below. Otherwise fire will likely go out and the stove will generate thick and heavy smoke into the room. Details and observations: – Easy to light …
Working from the stove back: At the start of the video is the stove with the 2 line (air and oil) coming through the needle valves and into the mixing chamber. Mixing chamber (oil and air) is fed to the .050 pressure washer nozzle inside the stove. Shooting from the front wall towards rear wall. Hidden is the in line oil hydraulic filter. Large tank is the screened oil. Small tank has funnel with courser screen on top. Second screen/water trap is on the wall between the two tanks. Oil is poured into the rh tank, valve is closed at base of the funnel and tank is pressurized to 40 psi with shop air to push the oil through the finer screen into the larger tank, then through the filter into the stove. Oil can be added to the RH tank while the stove runs on the LH tank. Both tanks hold 90 gals, which has been lasting much longer then I thought, as 2 to 3 hour of operation will bring the 40 by 60 by 18 high shop up to 70 degrees when its -25 out
PART 1 OF THE DIY PROJECT. SCRAP 70 GALLON WATER TANK I FOUND ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD.
Alternative heat made from two brake drums. Marshal Willoughby, Earth Steward shows you how simple it is!
I didn’t use enough gas so it didn’t get hot enough to vaporize the oil and burn the vapors, hence the relight. Plans for this heater were published in Mother Earth News magazine some time in the 80’s but the design was quite complex, and needlessly so. Roger Sanders worked out a lot of the bugs and simplified the design a lot. Here’s a link to his page. www.journeytoforever.org This heater creates a fair amount of soot which is supposedly less harmful than Co2 but it looks bad coming out of the flue. So, since I’m one for appearances, I’m working on a version that burns hot enough to have little or no smoke coming from the flue like this guy here. www.youtube.com Any input is cool as long as you’re not a douchebag about it. Constructive criticism only please. Thanks for watching.
A 60 watt incandescent lightbulb under a flower pot keeps my coop warm and the water liquified…so far!